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Table Mountain

The flat top of the city, by cable car or on foot.

A three-minute rotating cable car to a plateau a kilometre above the sea, or a two-hour climb up Platteklip Gorge if you would rather earn it. The trick is going on the right day, not the first day.

Cloud pouring over the summit of Table Mountain above the city at dusk

Everyone books Table Mountain for their first morning. It is the most common way to waste a day in Cape Town.

The mountain is a flat-topped sandstone massif standing directly behind the city, and it generates its own weather. The south-easterly that makes Cape Town summers bearable pours over the top and forms the cloud people call the tablecloth, and when it blows hard the cableway stops, sometimes for a day, sometimes for three. In winter the problem is inversion cloud, which sits on the plateau and reduces the summit to a white room.

So we do not book it in advance. We watch it. Your guide has the week's forecast and the cableway's own wind readings, and takes you up on the morning that will work, which might be your second day or your fifth.

Up there

The summit plateau is bigger than people expect: three kilometres of level rock and fynbos with laid paths, a café, and dassies that stopped caring about humans long ago. The Atlantic side looks down on Camps Bay and out to the horizon. The city side has the whole bowl, the harbour and Robben Island below you. Give it ninety minutes at least.

On foot

Platteklip Gorge goes straight up the front of the mountain: two hours, no technical difficulty, and unremitting. India Venster on the cable station side is more interesting and involves scrambling with exposure, and we run it with a mountain guide for people who genuinely want it. Both are much better at seven in the morning than at eleven.

The practical detail

How long it takes
Two to three hours by cable car, half a day on foot
When it works best
All year. The cableway closes in high wind, most common between November and February, and in low cloud, most common in winter.
Who it suits
No minimum age. Easy physically. Suitable for families. The cable car and the summit paths suit any age, and there is a level circular route at the top that takes a pushchair. Platteklip is a steep, relentless staircase of a climb and not one for a child under twelve.

Good to know

  • A dassie sunning itself on rock at the edge of the Table Mountain summit plateau

Where it happens

  • Table Mountain seen across Table Bay from Bloubergstrand at sunset

    Cape Town

    A working city wedged between a mountain and two oceans.

    4 to 6 nights

Itineraries that include it

Worth reading

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