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Western Cape

The Cape Winelands

Three hundred years of vines, an hour from the airport.

Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl sit in a ring of mountains forty-five minutes from Cape Town. It is the easiest place in South Africa to spend two slow days, and the one guests most often wish they had not rushed.

Vine rows running up to the gable of a white Cape Dutch homestead

The mistake people make in the Winelands is treating them as a day trip. Two nights here changes the shape of a whole holiday.

The valleys were planted by French Huguenots in the sixteen-eighties and the architecture has not moved on much, which is the point. White gabled homesteads under oaks, cellars dug into hillsides, and a scale that stays human. Most of the estates you will visit are family-owned and someone in the family will pour.

Stellenbosch, Franschhoek or Paarl

Stellenbosch is a university town with a serious food scene and the widest range of styles in the valley. Franschhoek is prettier, smaller and more polished, and if you have two nights and want to walk to dinner it is usually the answer. Paarl is the least visited and the best value, with a granite dome above the town that almost nobody climbs.

Whichever you stay in, we drive up the Franschhoek pass at some point. It is fifteen minutes off the route and it puts the whole valley below you in one view, which is the thing people photograph and the thing that makes the geography finally make sense.

With children

Better than it sounds. Several estates are set up for families, with lawns, ponds and a chef who will feed a seven-year-old at half past twelve rather than half past two. We pick those when there are children on the trip and put an afternoon in that has nothing to do with wine.

When it looks best

February and March, when the harvest is on and the valleys smell of fermenting fruit. April and May for the colour, when the vines turn and the mornings get cold. Winter is green, wet and quiet, with fires lit in the tasting rooms, and a good deal better than its reputation.

The practical detail

How long to stay
2 to 3 nights
Best months
October, November, December, January, February, March, April, May
Getting there
Forty-five minutes by road from Cape Town International, about an hour from the city centre. Every trip we run drives it, because the alternative is a hire car and a tasting room, and that is a combination nobody should be in.

Local knowledge

  • The whole Franschhoek valley seen from the top of the pass, vineyards to the mountains
  • A thatched Cape Dutch homestead behind a long reflecting pool and lawns
  • Vine rows and an estate building with the last of the sun on the mountain behind
  • A bronze sculpture on the lawn of a Stellenbosch estate below the mountains
  • A brick path through lavender and agapanthus to the gable of a Cape Dutch homestead

Things worth doing here

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