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Western Cape

The Cape Peninsula

Forty miles of mountain and ocean, ending at a lighthouse.

The tail of land running south from the city to Cape Point. It holds the best drive in the country, a penguin colony on a suburban beach, and the harbours the boats go out from.

The Atlantic seaboard road seen from the air at sunset, with Lion's Head beyond

Almost everyone drives the peninsula the same way round on the same schedule. There is no reason to.

The peninsula is a forty-kilometre spine of sandstone running south from Table Mountain and ending in a cliff at Cape Point. The Atlantic is on one side and False Bay on the other, and the two are different enough in temperature and temperament that you can swim on one and shiver on the other in the same afternoon.

The drive

Chapman's Peak Drive is the reason people come. A toll road blasted into the cliff face in 1915, a hundred and fourteen curves, and a drop to the water on your seaward side for the whole nine kilometres. It closes in high wind and after heavy rain, and your guide will know before you set off.

The harbours

Hout Bay is a working fishing harbour first and a tourist stop second, and it is where the seal island boats and most of the deep-sea charters leave from. Simon's Town, on the False Bay side, is a naval town with a Victorian main street, the penguin colony at the end of it, and calmer water for anyone who would rather not be thrown about. There is a bronze on the quay of Just Nuisance, a Great Dane enlisted into the Royal Navy in 1939 and the only dog ever formally to have been, which every guide in the Cape will tell you about whether you ask or not.

Noordhoek

The Atlantic side of the peninsula, below Chapman's Peak, and the longest beach in the Cape. Eight kilometres of sand with nothing built on it, a wrecked steamer half buried a kilometre along, and horses out on the waterline most afternoons.

Staying out here

Most guests keep Cape Town as their base and treat this as a day. If you are fishing or on a boat two mornings running, a night at Simon's Town or Noordhoek saves you two hours of driving and gets you on the water at first light.

The practical detail

How long to stay
0 to 2 nights
Best months
September, October, November, December, January, February, March, April, May
Getting there
Thirty minutes from the city centre to Hout Bay, an hour to Simon's Town, and about ninety minutes to Cape Point itself. Most guests do it as a day out from Cape Town rather than staying, though Simon's Town and Noordhoek both make a good night if you want an early start on the water.

Local knowledge

  • A lone rider on the wet sand at Noordhoek with Chapman's Peak behind
  • Simon's Town harbour with the Just Nuisance statue on the quay and the mountain behind

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