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Wine tasting in the Cape

Three estates, one long lunch, and a guide who drives.

The Cape has been making wine since 1659 and the interesting part is no longer the history. A properly built tasting day is three estates, not seven, with the cellar visits arranged in advance and someone else at the wheel.

A glass of red held at a long outdoor table with people talking beyond it

The best wine day anyone has here is the one with the fewest stops on it.

A tasting takes forty-five minutes if you rush it and ninety if you do it properly, with a walk through the cellar and the person who made the wine pouring it. Lunch at an estate is two hours and should be. That is a day: three estates, or two and a long lunch, and it beats the six-stop circuit some operators still sell.

Who takes you

Fred, most days. He spent forty years working in the South African wine industry before he started guiding, which means he was in these valleys through the period when Cape wine stopped being a domestic curiosity, and he knows a good number of the people who made that happen. A tasting with him is less a tour and more a conversation with somebody who can tell you why this slope is planted to cabernet and that one is not.

Angie guides the same days and comes at it from the other direction, which is knowing exactly when a party has had enough of cellars and would rather be sat under an oak with lunch.

What we book

Estates that will host a private tasting rather than putting you at the counter with the coach parties. Usually family-owned, usually with a cellar you can walk, usually with someone from the family or the winemaking team doing the pouring. Where an estate needs booking weeks out, we book it weeks out, and a fair amount of that is Fred ringing somebody he has known for thirty years.

What to expect in the glass

Chenin blanc, of which South Africa has more than anywhere on earth and which is finally being taken seriously. Cabernet and the Bordeaux blends from Stellenbosch. Syrah from Swartland. Chardonnay and pinot noir from the cool Hemel-en-Aarde valley behind Hermanus. And pinotage, the local crossing, which has a reputation it earned in the eighties and has largely outgrown.

The practical detail

How long it takes
A full day, or a half day from Cape Town
When it works best
All year. February and March are harvest, when the cellars are working. April and May give the best colour in the vineyards. Winter means fires and empty tasting rooms, which plenty of people prefer.
Who it suits
No minimum age. Easy physically. Suitable for families. Several of the estates we use are set up for children, with lawns, ponds and early kitchen service. Tell us there are children coming and we pick from those rather than from the tasting rooms that will not welcome them.

Good to know

  • A tasting room under a beamed roof, hung with large contemporary paintings

Where it happens

Itineraries that include it

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